Forum Replies Created
- Replies
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- September 6, 2013 at 7:46 am
- in reply to: Marzocchi forks ?
@zoltanka79 wrote:Hey vpc66, what did you do with that marzo? I’m asking, because i I found an cx60 for sale(needs some tune up), for about 15 bucks. Are they reliable? Thinking about swaping it with my Manitou 3, until I buy a new pack of elastomers.
The Manitou forks were the performance choice forks back in the day, I spent $400.00 on Manitou Comp fork (in 1993 I think) for my GT Tequesta. If you rode your bike, then your fork died, end of story… elastomers suck!!! However, you have a couple options, go stock and replace the elastomers knowing they will fail down the line, or use a spring. When I rebuilt my Comp, I used a Post Moderne suspension seatpost spring and it came out beautifully. After taking the internals out and cleaning everything (nasty job since your elastomers likely “melted”), install the spring in the fork leg with the adjuster knob, combine the best elastomers from both fork stacks and make one good elastomer stack for the opposite leg. I took a chance and it worked out, no promises, but I don’t see why it couldn’t work. Here is a link to the spring, $9.99 with free shipping, better than $63.00 for repop rubber donuts!
Good luck and keep us posted!
-DON-
- August 28, 2013 at 11:45 pm
- in reply to: Any Cudaheads running a 1×9 setup?
It should work fine for your ’94 Cuda. I like to think of it as 68mm B.B. shells were common on ’80’s bikes and 73mm was ’90’s thing. You always have some overlap and that was the case with early ’90’s bikes. Many times now they give you the same size sealed bottom bracket but include a couple plastic spacer rings to take up the 5mm difference in shell width.- August 28, 2013 at 11:32 pm
- in reply to: Bottom Bracket Question
Always a good idea to consult with the ultimate bike guru, Sheldon Brown (R.I.P.), half way down the page under bottom bracket:http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html
Good luck!
-D-
- August 28, 2013 at 11:07 pm
- in reply to: Bottom Bracket Question
110 vs. 113?Think of it in these terms…
old knees
&
chainring replacement
If your knees are getting old and/or don’t always work properly (my right is ruined with a snapped ACL) then go with the 113 as the additional 3mm will remove a minor amount of the work load on the interior of your knee joint.
As far as your chainrings, the added 3mm will increase your options when wanting to change rings, specifically increasing the tooth count on any oon your triple crank.
So, as you can see… I see no benefit in going with the narrower 110 bottom bracket. The only time proper chain line is crucial is when running a single speed set up. If you’re running a rear derailleur, you have built in flexibility.
Good luck!
-D-
p.s. One added benefit to going with the 113 is the possibility of recycling the B.B. into another frame down the line.
- August 28, 2013 at 12:42 am
- in reply to: Somebody is on good stuff !
A fool and their money…- August 27, 2013 at 2:45 pm
- in reply to: Marzocchi forks ?
When it comes to flippin’ bikes before I dump any of my time into wheels, I always check Craigslist, Reachoo, whatever and see if there is a cheap replacement. I’ve found the offset in replacing the wheel breaks even if you are spending hours of your limited time trying to polish a turd. I’d rather find another bike to flip, fix it up, and sell both bikes.Just me…
-D-
p.s. Hey V., I tried to post about your Marz fork but for whatever reason, it wouldn’t take the post, it kept kickin’ it back to the sign in page and I got pissed and gave up.
- August 27, 2013 at 2:35 pm
- in reply to: Somebody is on good stuff !
Yeah Big V., bikenstuff is on crack!!! He thinks everything he has is gold and expects the rest of the world to bankroll his expensive New York overhead! When Ross was doing the liquidation sale 10 years ago on the Cudas, sellers on Ebay were getting $69.00 to $99.00 for a new Cuda in the box. Now that the supply has popped and this dork sat on his stash, he thinks he can command those outrageous prices. The only upside for us is the possible perception that our Cudas are worth more than the market supports. bikenstuff is a total f‘ing clown!!!- August 27, 2013 at 2:25 pm
- in reply to: Rear Cantilever brake install
Brad, your Cuda looks great! It’s just the right mix of colors and yours being only the second Cuda that I’ve seen with an AMP fork… it really stands out! I like the use of the Surly hanger so much more than that lame frame donut, I think I’m going to order a couple to keep around as spares for the next build.Really diggin’ it man, nice job!!!
-D-
p.s. Maybe have some tire tread decals made for the frame to match your colors?
- August 20, 2013 at 12:04 am
- in reply to: 1993(?) A2T
Damn! Your A2T has some beautiful welds!!! They look like the welds on my ’89 Yeti FRO that Frank the Welder did… you are one lucky Cudahead!!!- August 18, 2013 at 4:28 pm
- in reply to: 1993(?) A2T
Wow, now there is a near impossible find… the last purple Zooka stem face plate I saw was a NOS one on RetroBikeUK, the seller wanted 25 pounds and got it quickly! A NOS Zooka stem fetched almost $200.00 a few months back, so they are still out there if you can wait. You would do better to have the silver one on the stem anodized purple to match and call it good. Trust me when I say that there are plenty of Zooka stems missing their cracked face plates.Happy hunting!
- August 18, 2013 at 12:54 am
- in reply to: 1993(?) A2T
Right on, you made it, welcome to the gang!!!Usually I don’t waste a breath on painting over something original, kind of a jerk that way, but yours being a 1993 or 1994 in a rare color that doesn’t come up too often (as a higher end bike)… I wouldn’t mess with it. As good brother Mixalive has said, “It’s only original once.” The way I see it you scored a great early Cuda for en excellent price, I’d leave it be and just enjoy riding the tires off it!
Again welcome, glad we could get you sorted out and in the family!
Peace,
-D-
p.s. Clearly that Ringle water bottle cage doesn’t match your bike, you best move would be to get a Camelback and send the Ringle cage to me… thanks!
- August 16, 2013 at 7:31 am
- in reply to: Rear Cantilever brake install
@vpc66 wrote:…My wife hate it when I am staring at his build pictures because she just know that the squirrel is spinning the rusty old wheel !
Is that code for makin’ the sweet lovin’ ? ? ?
- August 16, 2013 at 7:06 am
- in reply to: Samford’s 95 XX Team
Hey T.,Diggin’ the XX Cuda for a couple reasons, you landed the bike you were always after, and for the amazing frame save!
My years of BMX riding and racing demand I be open minded to others’ set ups, never for me to say what is comfy for one set of cheeks over another… that said, your saddle position looks really uncomfortable to me. Is that your chosen riding position? I’m not takin’ a piss and tryin’ to twist ‘ya up, I’m just wondering if the seat is how you want it or is it just an angle issue when you snapped the photo?
- August 15, 2013 at 1:49 pm
- in reply to: Rear Cantilever brake install
Oh man, I totally agree with you that there are some fabulous period correct bikes in various collections on this site… my gripe with purely a technical performance one and has nothing to do with aesthetics. The idea that running a single cable stop up front and an almost fully exposed brake cable (that’s prone to wear and rusting) to a silly little metal ring and then expecting it to perform well with a harsh bend… pretty stupid design!Look how far around the backside of the seat tube the donut is welded on my A2L, a straight line through the opening points down to the rear derailleur! How can that be the proper angle for a center pull brake? Plus, the angle of the opening set against that interior edge of the donut acts like a razor in stressing and eventually cutting the brake cable… pretty stupid design!
- August 15, 2013 at 1:13 am
- in reply to: Rear Cantilever brake install
@DPDISXR4Ti wrote:@neo_pop_71 wrote:
it’s the perfect upgrade to the silly brake cable donut that came on most ‘Cuda frames for the rear canti cable.
Ah, I was just wondering about that “donut” yesterday – posted a pic of it in this thread where I was raising the same overall topic…
So on the factory setup the brake housing gets braced there and then has to make a 90-degree turn downward?
Back to the Surly hanger, it would seem it doesn’t get clamped per se, but just loops through the clamp bolt and lets the cable housing position it out in the desired direction, yes? No issues with it rattling around on the bolt?
The rear canti brake on these frames is the only gripe point for me! The housing doesn’t even get braced, the housing stops a few inches behind the head tube with a cable stop on the top tube, then the fully exposed brake cable runs the length of the top tube and through the donut to eventually pull the brake straddle. It’s a lame design that has always bothered me because it feels like an afterthought in the design.
As far as the Surly hanger, once your brakes are hooked up and adjusted there is so much tension on that rear brake cable that the hanger wants to stay in place. The loop on my Cimarron is snug with the seat post in place, there is really no play or slop. For what it’s worth, anyone running canti brakes on their Cuda could benefit from the use of the Surly hanger. Please do post pics, it might sell a few of these purists that there is a better solution then stock!
Ha-Ha… 😆
