DPDISXR4Ti

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  • DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @mixalive wrote:

    I bought a Shimano 110mm 55 series bottom bracket the other day. It had an actual spindle length of 111.70mm. Just saying..

    That’s precisely the one I’ve ordered, so sounds like it’s a good choice. I’ll report back on the actual dims.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @neo_pop_71 wrote:

    If your knees are getting old and/or don’t always work properly (my right is ruined with a snapped ACL) then go with the 113 as the additional 3mm will remove a minor amount of the work load on the interior of your knee joint.

    Thanks for the insight, but too late – I already ordered the 110! :(

    I figured I’d err on the side of closer to the frame, given the challenges I had with a too long spindle. BTW, looks like the one that’s in there is at least a 120.

    If nothing else, I’m a little educated on this topic now. I had no clue before.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    If we believe BikePedia.com, it looks like the early (’94 – ’96) steel bikes are 68 x 110 and the later (’97/8) AL bikes are 73 x 113.

    I just measured my (powder-coated) frame and it comes in at 69.1mm, so I’d say that verifies the “68” value.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @vpc66 wrote:

    73 mm shell but spindle length depend on crankset , I use 110 on my Cuda. If you know what your spindle length is right now check how much clearance you have between the crank arms to chainstay and the clearance between the chainring and chainstay. You can use that space to get a idea of what BB you can use. You wrote that you tightened the cable…did you check your inner and outer throw screws on the derailleur. If the inner throw is set where it stops the derailleur from moving closer to the frame it will not matter how tight the cable is.

    Ah, so it’s actually a 73mm shell? I thought I had read it was a 68. And yes, I realize the spindle length is equally important. In fact, that’s the reason I need to swap mine out, as what’s in there now is too long. That also means I can’t use the current one as a reference, other than it being too long.

    And yes, I’ve fully backed the throw screws out and I still have a problem.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @neo_pop_71 wrote:

    Oh okay, that’s a simple fix, just swap out it out for a new sealed bearing bottom bracket, like a Shimano UN-53 (or -54 or -55) with a 68/73 shell with widths up to 118… you can’t go wrong! Jenson USA sells them for $10.00 with a price match on any other site’s pricing but 10 bucks is pretty hard to beat! Here’s a link:

    http://www.jensonusa.com/!jkq7zEy5sRCv9LxKqqmZ!g!/Shimano-UN53-Square-Taper-BB?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CKTA46_k3rMCFYl7Qgod7ycAmw

    I promise this is the last thread I’ll dredge up. :D The link above still works but the only listed shell sizes are 73mm (no 68 listed). Just wondering if that’s all they have left, or is it really a “68/73” and will work fine on my ’94 A2E.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    Reviving this thread, as it looks like I need to replace my BB. Trying to decide between a 68×110 vs. 113. The one wild card is my crankset which is a ’95 Shimano compact. I’m wondering if that sets the rings on a slightly different plane vs. the original, and thus it might influence the 110 vs. 113 decision. Anyone have any idea or guidance on how to determine?
    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @neo_pop_71 wrote:

    Brad, your Cuda looks great! It’s just the right mix of colors and yours being only the second Cuda that I’ve seen with an AMP fork…

    Thanks. I almost sold the AMP fork and just put a solid one up front, but I’ve owned the AMP fork for 20 years now – I’ve grown sorta attached to it.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    Done!



    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @neo_pop_71 wrote:

    The rear canti brake on these frames is the only gripe point for me! The housing doesn’t even get braced, the housing stops a few inches behind the head tube with a cable stop on the top tube, then the fully exposed brake cable runs the length of the top tube and through the donut to eventually pull the brake straddle.

    Okay, all my parts arrived yesterday and I’m trying to figure this out. The part that is confusing me is the lack of a rear cable stop, so you can’t run a typical short housing that would go in place between the rear cable stop and the Surly hanger. Do I just run a long length of housing between the back side of the front cable stop and the Surly hanger? That seems like the only reasonable solution.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @vpc66 wrote:

    the canti brakes just suck compared to the V’s on the Cuda….and if I had the chance to ride a bike with disc I am sure I would feel the same about the v’s. Evolution is funny that way!

    Yep! When I realized I wasn’t going to be able to make things work with what I had in front of me I briefly considered just getting some XT V’s so that I’d have the same stuff on both of my Mtn Bikes. But I’m kinda digging the purple components against the black frame, so I decided to stick with it and get the bits I needed to make it work. I should have this as a functional bike by next week!

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @neo_pop_71 wrote:

    Look how far around the backside of the seat tube the donut is welded on my A2L, a straight line through the opening points down to the rear derailleur! How can that be the proper angle for a center pull brake? Plus, the angle of the opening set against that interior edge of the donut acts like a razor in stressing and eventually cutting the brake cable… pretty stupid design!

    It’s such a bad design I wasn’t sure what it was there for! And then even once I understood, I never gave it any consideration. The one thing I could have done, and considered doing, was to fabricate a spacer/adapter so that I could have used that bolt-on yoke that I used on the previous frame. But I’ve already invested too much time trying to get this thing built. At this point, “good enough” is indeed good enough.

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    Okay, just ordered a straddle cable, carrier, and Surly hanger from Jenson, along with some other stuff I needed. I’ll try to remember to come back and update this post w/ pics.
    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @neo_pop_71 wrote:

    it’s the perfect upgrade to the silly brake cable donut that came on most ‘Cuda frames for the rear canti cable.

    Ah, I was just wondering about that “donut” yesterday – posted a pic of it in this thread where I was raising the same overall topic…

    http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/moving-early-90s-cantilver-brakes-new-frame-barracuda-a2e-870506.html#post10604467

    So on the factory setup the brake housing gets braced there and then has to make a 90-degree turn downward?

    Back to the Surly hanger, it would seem it doesn’t get clamped per se, but just loops through the clamp bolt and lets the cable housing position it out in the desired direction, yes? No issues with it rattling around on the bolt?

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @neo_pop_71 wrote:

    You can simply get a standard straddle cable and a seat post bolt cable stop like the one Surly makes.

    This is what you are referring to, yes?

    http://www.jensonusa.com/Surly-Brake-Hanger

    DPDISXR4Ti
    Member
    @vpc66 wrote:

    That was my point..use seat binder hardware.

    Ah, missed the point! Next visit to the LBS I’ll see what they have. In the mean time, nut & bolt will suffice.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 31 total)
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