Any Cudaheads running a 1×9 setup?

Okay, let me try again… is anyone running a one by anything set up? I’ve run them before, I’m just curious to hear how others set their bikes up. Plus, I have a couple of questions about chain line, bottom bracket width, etc., I’d like to bounce some ideas off ‘ya.

Thanks!

-D-

p.s. The rigid fork on my “RASKAL” is off my Barracuda, now the bike gets the rigid Hunter 29’er fork and the Kooka cranks is getting swapped with the XTR singlespeed crank (from my want ad in the Marketplace)… and I’m back to having more leftovers in the garage!

Thanks for the reply ctk… I too share your riding style when it come to a 1×9 vs. a 3×9. The 69’er I’m building will have a similar set up as well, I’m running a single chainring with a bashguard and using a chain watching. I have an oldie from the early 90’s when I built my first 1x_, it was called a “Third Eye” chain watching devise. It’s super simple as it’s nothing more than a racheting hose clamp with a plastic sleeve over the top but it always worked well. If I find my chain to be jumping, then I will go with a Ngear like you used. Back then, there weren’t many choices in alternative components, everything was 3x_ (6, 7, or depended on your budget and desire to have the newest thing. I guess it’s not so different these days but I’m pleased to see a newer platform developing with the 2×10 or 2×11 drivetrain. It seems pretty smart to me if your can run an 11-36 cassette, the gear overlap should be able to get your butt up the hill. For me the big added bonus is the tighter crank area. By eliminating that third chainring, you can bring the crank in and in doing so you really improve your chainline. I guess that’ll be my next move, build up a 2x_ drivetrain, but I’ll wait until a few friends have built their bikes to see how well it works (maybe I can score a cheap drivetrain if a buddy hates it ).

-D-

Well, Earth Day came and went… I didn’t get the RASKAL rebuilt for a couple reasons, the paint for my Hunter SuperCrown fork to match has been backordered and I’ve missed winning a few auctions for the needed components to finish up the build. Oh well, that’s how it goes… patience grasshopper… when you can snatch the pebble from my hand…

Anyway, I did manage to land a few more choice bits of bike jewelry… a NOS AC cnc’d brake booster, a NOS Tioga h’bar, a pair of Winwood “Decksters” clipless to platform pedal, a Thomson stem, and a PAUL “Thumbie” (for the 1×9 drivetrain), a PAUL Neo-Retro canti rear brake to go with the PAUL Cross Top brake lever.

I’ll keep you posted as the build comes together.

Mixalive’s prep methods were spot on but I differ in what to do about the rust. Having done a dozen old cars in the last 20 years, I swear by Jasco Prep and Prime. You simply have to brush this stuff on, dunk your parts, or in your case fill the tubing. This stuff converts rust from ferrous iron to iron phosphate, in other words it changes the chemistry of the rust back to steel (that’s a little oversimplified but you get the idea). Leave it over night, drain the frame, discard the polluted solution, let dry for a few hours and repeat if the rust is really bad.

Here’s the link:

http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=103&prodid=221

Before you get into any of this or spend money of chemicals, check for bubbled paint on the chainstays and around the bottom bracket… if you have some, do not assume that they are surface rust. Use a stiff wire or ice pick to open the bubbled paint, poke that wire around and see if you have a complete rust through (i.e. cancer). If so, recycle the metal or make a wall trophy out of it. Sorry brother, cancer in the stays is nothing to mess with, the frame is wasted!

Good luck and keep your fingers crossed!

-D-